In a bold move set to reshape the fashion industry, H&M is embarking on a groundbreaking project to create AI-powered “digital twins” of its models. These highly realistic virtual replicas will be used for product and marketing campaigns, allowing the Swedish retail giant to produce content without the need for costly and time-consuming photoshoots. While this innovative use of generative AI promises to revolutionise the industry, it raises significant ethical questions, particularly about the future of creative jobs and the rights of the models involved.
The Digital Twin Revolution
The concept of digital twins—virtual replicas of real-life individuals—has been gaining traction in various industries, and now fashion is joining the fray. In partnership with AI provider Uncut, H&M plans to create digital twins of 30 models in 2025. The process involves taking a comprehensive set of photographs of each model, capturing them from various angles and in different lighting conditions. These images are then used to train AI systems to generate digital replicas with remarkable accuracy, down to birthmarks and unique movement patterns.
For the models involved, this venture is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the digital twins offer exciting new possibilities for career expansion. Models will retain full ownership of their virtual selves, and they can licence their digital likenesses to H&M or other brands, including competitors. In this sense, the models become the gatekeepers of their own digital identities. H&M is transparent about the technology’s potential impact, acknowledging that it doesn’t yet fully understand how it will affect the industry as a whole, including photographers, makeup artists, and stylists who traditionally play key roles in fashion imagery.
Transparency and Involvement of Models
H&M’s approach differs significantly from other uses of virtual models, such as virtual influencers who are entirely computer-generated personas. While these digital influencers, like Aitana Lopez, have gained popularity with brands, they do not represent real people. In contrast, H&M’s digital twins are seen as complementary to their human counterparts, not as replacements. The company has worked directly with models and their agencies to ensure that the models’ rights are respected throughout the process. According to Jörgen Andersson, Chief Creative Officer at H&M, the company’s strategy is rooted in a desire to explore how generative AI can enhance creativity, while maintaining its commitment to a human-centric approach.
This strategy, however, does not come without controversy. AI-generated models have already been a source of tension within the fashion industry. In 2023, Levi’s faced backlash when it attempted to use AI models to increase diversity in its online shopping experience. The company ultimately shelved its plans after a public outcry from industry professionals and consumers alike. H&M is aware that opinions on the matter will be divided. Andersson acknowledges that the use of AI in fashion could be met with mixed reactions, but believes that ignoring the technology would be short-sighted. “AI is coming either way,” he says, “and we believe the best way to navigate this is to involve the models and agencies in the process.”
The Impact on Creative Jobs
While the digital twins offer a new revenue stream for models, there are concerns that the broader creative workforce could be undermined by the rise of AI in fashion. The use of digital twins could potentially reduce the need for entire photoshoot teams, including photographers, stylists, and makeup artists. Some industry professionals, such as New York-based makeup artist Mary Irwin, have expressed concern about the loss of collaborative, behind-the-scenes work that makes fashion shoots a unique artistic process. The shift towards AI-generated imagery could lead to a more concentrated pool of work among top models, leaving less room for emerging talent.
There are also questions surrounding the compensation for digital twins. Traditionally, models are paid for the usage rights to their images, based on factors such as the duration of a campaign and the markets in which their image will appear. With digital twins, however, the compensation model is still being worked out. H&M’s business developer, Louise Lundquist, suggests that the compensation for digital twins will mirror that of traditional models, but this has yet to be formalised. Critics, like Sara Ziff from the advocacy group Model Alliance, are concerned that AI-driven models could lead to lower pay for models, particularly as brands seek to reduce costs.
The Future of AI in Fashion
Despite the potential for disruption, H&M remains optimistic about the future of AI in fashion. Andersson believes that AI will never fully replace human creativity, stating that it will only be valuable when directed by creative professionals. “Without human direction, AI is just regurgitating what’s been done before,” he explains. “The real magic happens when human creativity and AI work together.”
The company is keen to test the waters with its digital twins and gauge consumer reactions. The first images of these AI-generated models will be clearly watermarked to indicate their artificial nature, providing transparency and an opportunity for feedback. As H&M rolls out its digital twins on social media and in marketing campaigns, it will be closely monitoring how the public responds to these new virtual faces of fashion.
While H&M’s digital twins are certainly a pioneering step in the integration of AI into the fashion world, the long-term impact on the industry remains uncertain. Will AI models enhance the creative process or diminish the role of human talent? The answer will likely evolve as the technology continues to develop and fashion brands navigate the complexities of using AI responsibly. For now, H&M’s experiment with digital twins is a bold statement of intent to lead the conversation on AI’s role in the future of fashion.
Source;https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/technology/hm-plans-to-use-ai-models/
